Get Answers to Your Questions
Do you have many questions regarding your HVAC system or service? Many of your concerns can be addressed below. Please call the experts at 513-398-4328 if your questions aren't answered below.
Q: Why Should I Replace My Existing Heating or Air Conditioning System?
A: You may wish to consider replacing your air conditioning or heating system if it is old, inefficient, or in need of repair. Today's systems are as much as 60% more efficient than those systems manufactured as little as 10 years ago. In addition, if not properly maintained, wear and tear on a system can reduce the actual or realized efficiency of the system.
If you are concerned about utility bills or are faced with an expensive repair, you may want to consider replacing your system rather than enduring another costly season or paying to replace an expensive component.
The utility cost savings of a new unit may provide an attractive return on your investment. If you plan on financing the purchase, the monthly savings on your utility bills should be considered when determining the actual monthly cost of replacing a system. The offsetting savings may permit you to purchase a more efficient system.
Q: How Expensive Are Air Conditioning and Heat Pump Systems?
A: Many factors affect the cost of a heating or air conditioning system, including the size of your home, the type and condition of the ductwork installed, and accessories you might need such as a thermostat or an electronic air cleaner.
We will be happy to assist you in finding the right system to meet not only your comfort needs but also your household budget.
Q: How Do I Select the Right Heating / Cooling System?
A: First, make sure the unit is properly sized. We will provide a load calculation for your home and an energy analysis to determine operating cost. Next, consider any comfort issues in the home. Some products can reduce air stratification and uneven temperatures from room to room.
If you have allergies, an indoor unit with an ECM motor will allow you to circulate the air in your home continuously while filtering the air for about the same cost as operating a standard light bulb.
Finally, know your budget parameters and the efficiency of the system being proposed. Does the system offer a payback? In other words, will the monthly savings over time offset the cost of the new unit or efficiency option being considered?
Q: What Is Involved in Replacing an Old System?
A: Aside from the placement of the new equipment, we will inspect several items and make a determination of whether or not these items need to be supplied or replaced.
Some of the items include ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans, and evaporator coil.
Q: What Is Involved in Installing a New System?
A: If a system is being added to the home for the first time, most of the items noted in the previous question and answer may be required to install the new system. Besides the equipment, the most significant component is ductwork.
The ductwork can be either metal or fiberglass ductwork. The ductwork needs to be properly sized to deliver the right amount of air to each room. The ductwork consists of supply and return ductwork.
The supply duct is attached to the outlet of the furnace or air handler and delivers air to individual zones in your home. We will determine the size of the ductwork going into a space by the amount of air that needs to be delivered to the space.
Q: How Long Can I Expect a New System to Last?
A: If you have one of our qualified technicians perform regular preventative maintenance and service suggested for your unit, industry averages suggest that an air conditioner should last 12 - 15 years (sea coast applications may be less) and a gas furnace should last as many as 20 - 25 years.
Q: What Are Some Preventative Maintenance Things I Should Be Aware Of?
A: With the proper attention, heating and cooling systems can keep you comfortable year-round. Heat pumps and oil-fired furnaces and boilers need a yearly professional tune-up. Gas-fired equipment burns cleaner and can be serviced every other year. A close inspection will uncover leaks, soot, rust, rot, corroded electrical contacts, and frayed wires. In furnace (forced air) and boiler (hot water) systems, the inspection should also cover the chimney, ductwork or pipes, dampers or valves, blower or pump, registers or radiators, the fuel line, and the gas meter or oil tank as well as every part of the furnace or boiler itself.
Next, the system should be run through a full heating cycle to ensure that it has plenty of combustion air and chimney draft. Finally, cleaning the burner and heat exchanger to remove soot and other gunk will prevent such buildup from impeding smooth operation.
For the burner, efficiency hinges on adjusting the flame to the right size and color, adjusting the flow of gas, or changing the fuel filter in an oil-fired system. A check of the heat pump should include an inspection of the compressor, fan, indoor and outdoor coils, and refrigerant lines. Indoor and outdoor coils should be cleaned, and the refrigerant pressure should be checked.
Tuning up the distribution side of a forced air system starts with the blower. The axle should be lubricated, blades cleaned, and lower motor checked to ensure the unit isn't being overloaded. The fan belt should be adjusted, so it is deflected no more than an inch when it gets pressed.
Every accessible joint in the ductwork should be sealed with mastic or UL-approved duct tapes. Any ducts that run outside the heated space should be insulated. On a hot water system, the expansion tank should be drained, the circulating pump cleaned and lubricated, and air bled out of the radiators.
While thermostats rarely fail outright, they can degrade over time as mechanical parts stick or lose their calibration. Older units will send faulty signals if they've been knocked out of level or have dirty switches.
To recalibrate an older unit, use a wrench to adjust the nut on the back of the mercury switch until it turns the system on, and using a room thermometer, set it to the correct temperature. Modern electronic thermostats, sealed at the factory to keep out dust and grime, rarely need adjusting.
However, whether your thermostat is old or young, the hole where the thermostat wire comes through the wall needs to be caulked or a draft could trick it into thinking the room is warmer or colder than it really is.
A neglected in-duct humidifier can breed mildew and bacteria, not to mention add too much moisture to a house. A common mistake with humidifiers is leaving them on after the heating season ends. Don't forget to pull the plug, shut the water valve, and drain the unit.
A unit with a water reservoir should be drained and cleaned with white vinegar, a mix of one part chlorine bleach to eight parts water, or muriatic acid. Mist-type humidifiers also require regular cleaning to remove mineral deposits.
Most houses with forced air furnaces have a standard furnace filter made from loosely woven spun-glass fibers designed to keep it and its ductwork clean. Unfortunately, they don't improve indoor air quality. That takes a media filter, which sits in between the main return duct and the blower cabinet.
Made of a deeply-pleated, paper-like material, media filters are at least seven times better than a standard filter at removing dust and other particles. An upgrade to a pleated media filter will cleanse the air of everything from insecticide dust to flu viruses.
Compressed, media filters are usually no wider than six inches, but the pleated material can cover up to 75 square feet when stretched out. This increased area of filtration accounts for the filter's long life, which can exceed two years.
The only drawback to a media filter is its tight weave, which can restrict a furnace's ability to blow air through the house. To ensure a steady, strong air-flow through the house, choose a filter that matches your blower's capacity.
Inside the walls and floors of 80 percent of American homes runs a maze of heating and air conditioning ducts that connect the each room to the furnace. As the supply ducts blow air into rooms, return ducts inhale airborne dust and suck it back into the blower.
Add moisture to this mixture, and you've got a breeding ground for allergy-inducing molds, mites, and bacteria. Many filters commonly used today can't keep dust and debris from streaming into the air and over time, sizable accumulations can form dust bunnies, but in bigger sizes.
To find out if your ducts need cleaning, pull off some supply and return registers and take a look. If a new furnace is being installed, you should probably invest in a duct cleaning at the same time, because chances are the new blower will be more powerful than the old one and will stir up a lot of dust.
Professional duct cleaners tout such benefits as cleaner indoor air, longer equipment life, and lower energy costs. Clean HVAC systems can also perform more efficiently, which may decrease energy costs, and cause them to last longer, reducing the need for costly replacement or repairs.
Cleaning has little effect on air quality, primarily because most indoor dust drifts in from the outdoors. But it does get rid of the stuff that mold and bacteria grow on, and that means less of it gets airborne, a boon to allergy sufferers.
Q: Should I Change My Indoor Coil?
A: When replacing your air conditioner or heat pump, the answer is most likely yes. The efficiency ratings that are advertised for an air conditioner or heat pump are based on the performance as part of a matched system. If only the outdoor portion is changed, the efficiency and savings could be less than that of a matched system.
Q: Where Do I Get Replacement Parts?
A: Contact us
for help obtaining replacement parts.